For owners of classic, antique and vintage cars, sports cars and racing cars, storing your seldom-used car in a storage unit is often a viable option. Whether your car is an expensive one that you display in auto shows and parades or just an average car holding only personal sentimental value, you will want to know how to best prepare your car for storage. Proper storage will extend the life of your vehicle, keep it looking like new and running in top condition. Storing your vehicle in an enclosed, climate-controlled self storage unit is essential. A damp storage unit will cause rust damage to vehicles. Keeping your car in an enclosed storage unit will keep your car safe from theft and vandalism, as well as nature’s elements. Components such as snow, rain, heat and hail and dust can damage your vehicle and greatly depreciate its value. Placing your car in storage will also protect it from the possibility of being hit by another vehicle. You will want to choose a storage unit that is in close proximity to your home so that you can check on it frequently.
Before storing a vehicle, be sure to check with your insurance carrier. Many insurance companies offer coverage especially written to protect your car while in storage. Such off road coverage can offer significant savings over the road insurance coverage. While preparing a car for storage, keep the following check list handy and be sure to follow it carefully so that your vehicle will run to its optimal performance level and continue to look like new when it’s time to take it out of storage.
- Gather the tools and supplies that you may need before you get started. Some supplies you will need to have handy are various quality cleaners and protectants, a tire gauge, plastic drop cloth, cotton cloth, mothballs and mouse traps. Other items you will need are plastic bags, duct tape, fuel stabilizer, WD40, desiccant sacs, jack and jack stands. You may also need a large wood block for the battery and thin wood trim pieces for under the wind shield wipers. Make sure that you have adequate amounts of each type of fluid on hand to top off all of your fluids.
- Clean Your Car thoroughly both inside and out. Wash the exterior and use a buffer over the entire exterior of the car to buff out all imperfections and apply a good coat of wax. This will protect the exterior from corrosion. Consider having this professionally done.
- Wipe the mirrors clean. Dirt and residue left on mirrors for long periods of time can cause rust and corrosion.
- Remove all trash and debris from the interior of the car. Vacuum it thoroughly to remove all pet hair and food crumbs. Use a stain remover to scrub away any and all stains from the carpet and upholstery. Use an air freshener spray to remove all odors from the inside of your car. Remove all items from the trunk of your car and don’t neglect to properly clean the carpet in the trunk area as well.
- Repairs that may be needed should be done prior to placing your car in storage to prevent further deterioration.
- Change the oil and filter one to two days before putting it into storage. Used oil contains acids, moisture and other combustion byproducts that will cause engine corrosion over time especially when the car sits for long periods.
- Drive your car for several miles after the oil change and before storing it to allow the oil to circulate throughout the entire engine.
- Pull the spark plugs and add about a teaspoon of engine oil inside of each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs – doing this will coat the inside of the cylinders to prevent rust.
- Seal off all engine openings using absorbent cotton cloth. This will absorb any moisture to protect the engine. It will also deter bugs and mice from getting inside. Use cotton cloth to fill other openings in the exhaust pipes and other openings. Be sure to write this down on your maintenance check list to remind yourself to remove the cotton cloth when taking your car out of storage, prior to driving it again.
- Spray the exposed metal surfaces of your engine with a good lubricant such as WD40 to prevent rust. The WD40 will quickly evaporate, causing a protectant film to cover the carb body, hose clamps, coils and other parts.
- Fill the gas tank to prevent moisture and air from getting into your tank. However, if storing in a poorly ventilated unit where gas fumes may create a problem, keep the gas tank only half full.
- Add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank. Be sure to drive the car around for about 10 miles after adding the fuel stabilizer to allow it to circulate throughout the system. Neglecting to add a fuel stabilizer can cause the gas to break down, causing it to form gum and varnish when it deteriorates.
- Check the color of the brake fluid. The brake fluid should look clear. If the brake fluid is brown and looks dirty, the brake fluid needs to be flushed out and refilled with new fluid. When brake fluid gets old, it contains moisture which can rust the break system. Be sure that the brake, clutch and master cylinders are both full of brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs water quickly. It is recommended that the brake and clutch fluid be bled out annually to purge the system of contaminated brake fluid.
- Flush transmission fluid, steering fluid and engine coolant if it appears dirty to prevent corrosion to their systems. If these fluids are clear, top them off to prevent air and moisture from getting inside which will also cause damage.
- Convertible Tops should be stored with the top left up. When the convertible top is left open for long periods, it can develop large, ugly looking creases. Treat the convertible top with silicone or other lubricant. Desiccant sacs can be placed inside the interior of the car on the floor. This will keep moisture that may form from humidity from damaging the top.
- Tires can go bad when sitting in storage for long periods. They can develop dry rot and flat spots. Avoid using products to give your tires a shine as they will dry out the tires and increase dry rot. Over inflate the tires slightly to 37 or 38 psi to prevent flat spots. Have tires checked for leaks and have them repaired before storage. Tires with an “H” rating or higher will do best in storage.
- Refer to your owner’s manual when caring for your battery. Some car specialists suggest removing the battery and placing it on a wooden block so the battery won’t be drained. Others suggest leaving the battery in the car but disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery. Still other car specialists insist that the battery should be left intact in the car to prevent voltage spikes. Voltage spikes can do major damage to components.
- A Storage Switch can be found on some cars. When flipping this switch, the battery shuts off, preventing the battery from draining and deters theft.
- Roll up the windows and close vents to protect your car against moisture and from bugs and mice getting inside.
- Check hoses for bulges and cracks, and have them replaced if they show extensive damage.
- Exhaust Pipes can be protected from moisture and pests from getting inside by placing a plastic bag over the exhaust pipe opening and sealing it around the exhaust pie with duct tape.
- Windshield Wipers remove the blades and place thin wood strips, or white cotton cloth under the wipers to prevent them from scratching the windows.
- Park the car on a plastic sheet or on jacks. Make sure the emergency break is off to prevent it from sticking.
- Cover your car with a tarp to keep it safe from dust.
- Set moth balls around the outside of the car and mouse traps to keep pests away.
- Visit your car at least once a month; start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. WARNING: make sure you leave the door to your storage unit open when running the engine for proper ventilation. When possible, take your car for a quick drive to get all parts moving.
- Revive the car after long storage. Open all windows to air out your car. Remove the cotton cloth placed in all pipe openings. Remove the plastic bag from the exhaust pipe. Check all fluids. Reinstall the battery and make sure it is fully charged. Take your car for a drive.
Taking the proper precautions is very important if you want your boat to be ready to use when spring comes. Failure to winterize your boat can cause significant damage such as cracks, leaks, corrosion, and frozen pipes. Freezing, dormancy, moisture, and corrosion can lead to large repair bills. In order to avoid costly repairs in the spring, it is important to take the proper precautions in the fall.
Here are some necessary steps to take when winterizing your boat:
Find a storage location Your options are storing in your garage, in your driveway or backyard, rack storage, a marina, or a storage facility. Be sure to consult your owner’s manual for rules on safety, instructions on towing capacity, and storage tips.
Clean Be sure to give your boat a thorough cleaning inside and out. This will also let you discover anything that might need repair before putting your boat away until the spring. It will let you take care of any spills or messes that you may not have been aware of, and thus let you avoid having to uncover any mysterious odors in the spring. Clean your boat and apply a rust inhibitor on your steering and control cables and on the metal hardware.
Repair damages It is best to handle anything that is broken, worn, or damaged in the fall when boatyards are less busy than in the springtime rush. You also don’t want to leave something like a crack sitting all winter long, as damage could become worse.
Remove electronics All electronics should be removed and stored in a safe, dry, and warm place.
Prevent mildew Things such as cushions, curtains, sails, personal flotation devices, and fire extinguishers should also be stored. Lockers and drawers should be propped open to air out, and the refrigerator should be emptied out. To avoid mildew, keep the moisture inside your boat in suspension and on the move. A dehumidifier can help increase the interior air temperature and prevent moisture, as it keeps the air circulating inside the boat. Be sure to place some boxes of baking soda throughout your boat to absorb moisture.
Drain Drain the fluid from your manifolds and engine blocks, water pumps, and coolers. Be sure to drain and fill the gearcase with gearcase lubricants. Drain the port-a-potty, fresh water tank, and hot water heater. Add non-toxic antifreeze to your water tank, hot water heater, and port-a-potty.
Fuel and antifreeze Fill the gas tank to prevent condensation, oxidation, and gas spoilage. Be sure to add stabilizer to preserve the gas and prevent damage to the fuel system. Run the engine for about 15 minutes to make sure the stabilizer reaches the gas in your fuel lines. Put antifreeze into the cooling system and into the supply lines for the water faucets and shower.
Monitor oil Run the engine to warm it up and change the oil while it is warm. Dirty engine oil can thicken after long-term storage and make it difficult to start the boat when you are done storing it. Be sure to change the oil filter, too.
Prepare the engine You’ll also want to change the transmission fluid, remove spark plugs, and use “fogging oil” on each cylinder. Spray a towel with fogging oil or WD-40 and wipe down the engine.
Paint Sand the bottom of the boat and repaint it to prevent rust.
Prepare the battery Disconnect the battery cables and remove the battery. Clean the terminal ends, wash the battery with a solution of water and baking soda, and rinse it with distilled water. Apply a light coating of grease to the terminal ends of the battery and cables. Be sure to use a trickle charger to keep the battery charged. Store it in a dry, safe place and off of concrete.
Inspect the stern drive Thoroughly inspect the stern drive and remove any plants or barnacles from the lower unit. For stern drives with rubber boots, be sure to check for cracks or holes. Make sure you grease all fittings and check your fluid levels.
Clean bilges Bilges should be clean and dry. Use soap, hot water, and a stiff brush to clean up any spills from oil. Once the bilges are clean, spray them with a moisture-displacing lubricant and add antifreeze to prevent water from freezing.
Choose a proper cover Be sure to cover your boat tightly before storing it, even if it is being stored indoors. Make sure that whatever cover you choose has good ventilation. Also be certain there are no tears or damages to the cover.
Most insurance policies don’t cover damage caused by lack of maintenance, so winterizing is very important. The best way to winterize your boat is to check your owner’s manual; every boat is different. Don’t be afraid to seek professional help and ask lots of questions if you have never winterized before. It’s better to be safe than sorry.